July 14th - First Day Back, The Royal Mile and Haggis

I woke up at 4:22 this morning thinking I had overslept because it was so light outside. I hadn't. I still had to check all available clocks to make sure. Of course, then I was kind of up. I slept for a little bit longer. Kasia got up to go for her run and turned on the main lights on accident. When she left I was able to sleep for an extra 30 minutes before getting ready.

Breakfast was in the hotel and wasn't bad. They have the option of vegetarian sausage, but I didn't ask for it. I went with two pieces of toast, a croissant, a Scottish pancake, and a chocolate croissant with some orange juice. Not the best food or selection, but it did its job. After breakfast, we made our way up to the Hilton hotel for our first day of classes. Surprisingly, everything is rather close together. It wasn't a far walk especially when you're in the company of friends and excited for the day's activities. We walked past the Balmoral hotel where J.K. Rowling finished writing Harry Potter. Then we went across the bridge that had great views of the city.

The Hilton, is a much nicer hotel than the one we are sleeping in. It is more of the standard we had in Rome. It was a nice change in scenery. Our welcome back lecture was good as well as the faculty readings. I'm still a bit jet lagged so I really had to work at not falling asleep a couple of times and not because things were boring.

For lunch, Mary, Alisha, and I set out for the Royal Mile. We ate at a nice place across from St. Giles Cathedral. I had a potato-leek-blue cheese soup and pasta. A nice meal while watching the grim reaper survey the tourists walking by and listening to the street musician. Service really is not the highlight here. And of course I got a bit of a sunburn from the sun which shouldn't be out in Scotland but is. Grrr!

Alisha went back to the hotel for her orientation and Mary and I checked out some tourist shops with the extra hour we had as well as more street performers. It was nice relaxing hour before workshop which I was kind of nervous about.

For all my worry, workshop was amazing. We spent the first bit just getting to know each other. It was really nice to have that time available to us and to be with just a ya group compared to last year's mixed bunch. When we came back after break, Leslea put us through some writing exercises. At first I was a bit hesitant because they had to do with remembering plus the pressure to perform on command. It ended up being really great, especially because I was writing again. It was actually a really good starter and I might just steal it for my students. :)
After class, I set up a time to conference with Leslea (Sunday) about the upcoming independent study. I'll be nervous about that as well, but it'll be nice to actually have met my mentor in person this time around. I had signed up for a group dinner and we met at 6:45. We ate at the Rosehip behind our hotel and down the street. It was a cute little restaurant. I felt adventurous and ordered the veggie haggis. I know it's not the same as traditional haggis, but it is the closet I can get. It wasn't bad. A bit spicy. Then all I had was a walk home in the blessed rain drizzle.

July 13 - Arrival

My flight to Amsterdam was uneventful but long. The entertainment system wasn't working in the seats starting at row 32. I was luckily sitting in row 30. I really dodged a bullet on that one because even with the entertainment system I was going a little stir crazy. There was an empty seat beside a me which allowed me to expand a little which helped, but I still thought I was going to be sick about halfway through.

The lunch on the plane was predictably bad. Eggplant lasagna which might be good at any other time but not so much when you're not cruising at 30,000 feet. I ate bits and pieces of what I could stomach and let them take the rest.

This flight was different than others I've been on. Granted I was flying Delta for the first time when I normally fly United, but I was given warm towels to do what I don't know with and given an eyemask to help you sleep. I promptly lost the eyemask. It sucked. Still, I made do.

I arrived a bit early in Amsterdam and was able to calm my stomach before getting on the next flight where I was squished into the window seat, my least favorite position. It was a short flight back the way I came to land in Edinburgh.

I found my Spalding peeps right away, and we got on the coach to get to the hotel right away. There was a slight argument between the guide and the driver about when he could drive, but we soon made it to our hotel where my room was not ready. I had lunch with a few other Spalding fiction writers while I waited for my room to be ready.

Finally, I made it up to my modest room with a super tiny hallway/doorway. I started to get my barrings when Kasia arrived. We caught up and unpacked. I took a shower to get the airport grim off of me before collapsing in bed.

The welcome back dinner was at the Amber restaurant at the Scotch Whiskey Experience where there were too courses of fish. I was weary of eating the fish but I gave the salmon a go. It wasn't bad. The dessert course was cheese, grapes, oatcakes, and chutney. Not bad, but not exactly dessert.

It was good to talk and catch up with everyone. By the end, I was ready to leave. We strolled through the streets of wet pavement from the recent rain and I smiled to myself. I felt like I had come home.

July 12th - FlyPDX

Today starts my second year as a Spalding University MFA student. After spending four days bedridden from an illness, it's good to be out and about. I just hope my stomach will handle the journey. It's still a little tender.

I had all my bags packed last night so it was a long morning of waiting, especially after I dropped toothpaste on my shirt and it took forever to dry.

Fully dressed in a somewhat dry dress it was off to the airport. The lines at baggage drop off weren't too long. Security took about the same time. Now it's just the waiting game. Luckily, I've managed to find a seat next to an unused charging station and next to only midily annoying children. Soon, it's aboard the plane and in 10 hours we touch down in Amsterdam for a shirt layover before I arrive 'home' in Edinburgh.

July 12th- A Day in Roma

I woke up late today. Too tired from the day before. My tiredness/soreness plus my lack of planning made me put Florence on the shelf. I would spend the day in Rome, but first I needed to get things cleared with my room. Yesterday, when I returned after Pompeii my key didn’t work. I went down this morning and got everything figured out, even though it took me several elevator rides. First to get my passport and then another to have them once again reset my key.

I had a list of four things I wanted to accomplish today.  I headed for the Metro, knowing I needed as much help getting around as I could get. I went to my furthest stop to make sure that the Van Goghs were indeed not able to be viewed at the National Museum of Modern Art. They weren’t. I at least got to see a really cool turtle fountain. I headed back to the Metro and went one stop to the Spanish Steps to see the Keats-Shelley House. I hadn’t realized it was here until a few Spalding people had gone. It’s super small but has a beautiful collection of letters and artifacts from the Romantics. I spent a lot of time reading and just admiring everything. The house is the house that John Keats stayed at when he came to Rome trying to save his failing house. It’s the house which he died in. It was an emotional experience standing in those rooms. They also have the collected works of both Shelley and Keats you can read so I sat and read ‘Ode to a Grecian Urn,’ the poem Mr. Lovatt drilled into me every day. I love the Romantics. Although, I’m not quite sure why Shelley is included in the house since he didn’t live there.

I had planned on going to the Trevi Fountain next, as it was the next Metro stop, but I was too hungry from skipping breakfast and I needed a break. I went back to the hotel and had lunch. Unfortunately, they’re moving the kitchen so I couldn’t order my French fries, but I got a nice salad. 

Ready to again brave the streets of Rome, I went out into the sweltering heat making it to the Metro station. I debated with myself whether or not I was actually going to go to Keats’ grave or not. It was pretty far away and the sun was beating down, but I finally decided I needed to. I was in the room where he died, why not see where he was buried. The first Metro was a rough journey. It must have been a very old car. It would slam into each station, abruptly stop and then immediately open its doors. I made it in one piece. Crossing the street was quite interesting, as it always is in Rome. I walked around the pyramid and saw where I needed to be and then ended up walking the too far. I was able to turn myself around and reassess my map to find the right street to go down. I am getting better at map reading.

The cemetery was beautiful and not too busy. I used the Rick Steves guidebook and easily found my way to Shelley’s tomb. Shelley isn’t actually buried here as he was cremated, but he’s got a slab with his name on it adorned with fresh flowers. I read him some poetry. Next, I found my way to Keats’ grave, but not before I literary saw a weeping angel.

There was a large group at Keats’ grave, but after they also moved on I read Keats some poetry as well. It was a short visit, but I think well worth it.

Back across the hazardous streets of Rome and into the Metro station I headed back to where I started off from. My feet by this point were starting to get very angry with me. I knew I didn’t have a lot of walking left in me, plus the heat of the sun was not helping. I had to make a decision. A decision where I choose gelato and a museum over the Trevi Fountain. The National Museum of Rome, near my hotel and the Metro station chronicles the rise and fall of the Roman Empire. It came highly recommended in the guidebook and I’m glad I went. They had some pretty cool stuff. I visited each floor.

 

I had really wanted to end my day with gelato. I could have gone to the same place I had gone with Shawna, but Manuel had said this was the absolute best gelato in town. How could I say no to the best gelato in town? Plus, Manuel was spot on with his dinner recommendation. I slowly hobbled my way up and through the streets checking my map several times to make sure I was going the right way. And then there it was like a shining beacon. It was a little nerve wrecking ordering something at a non-tourist place, but I got through it with pointing. It was so worth it. Romana is the best gelato place. It was smooth and creamy and coated my mouth. The chocolate was good, but the hazelnut was amazing!

On the way back I did a little shopping and then had to lay down with my feet up to rest. I watched an Italian game show where the contestants had to fill in the blanks like wheel of fortune but the work was an answer to a question and then if they didn't get it right they were dropped from the trap door they were standing on.

After a good hour resting I got up once more. I had a little bit more shopping to complete across the street, mainly because I wasn’t going to walk any more than necessary and plus I really liked the guy across the street. Then back at the hotel for what I was hoping would be dinner and wine, but as I arrived Marco informed me that there was no food except for a Caesar salad. I said no to the salad but yes to the wine. Marco asked what I wanted the best wine or the beautiful wine and I told him to pick. He wanted the beautiful wine. It was beautiful. We exchanged a little small talk. He asked me where I had been because I looked so tired. He talked about the train crash, “modern trains on very old lines,” and I enjoyed my wine until I realized the wine on a dinner of gelato was not the best choice. I ate some of the crackers they had given me to help counter the wine, but I still wasn’t able to finish the last bit. Marco left, with a scooter helmet. Not what I was expecting at all. I paid for my drink and went and laid down.

Feeling better from the wine, I packed things up and took a shower. In the middle of my shower someone knocked on my door, but I couldn’t answer it and they never came back. It goes along with the strange 6am phone call to the room a few days ago. One more night before I was headed home.  

July 11th - Mt. Vesuvius and Pompeii

It was an early start to the morning, especially after such a late night. I had to make my way over to the Piazza del Polpoto, the square of the people, to meet up with my Pompeii tour. I used the metro for the first time! I got a little turned around on how to get to the Metro, but I finally found it. The ticket machine was a little confusing, being all in Italian, and I kept trying to hit the wrong button to order more tickets. I finally got it, headed through the entrance and descended into the metro. It’s just like riding the Max back home.

I arrived at the square and ran into a fellow Spaldingite who was taking a tour of Capri. We went had had breakfast and waited. I had been a little worried about finding the right meeting point, but it was no problem. When the tour group arrived to check in there was a huge line for Pompeii. I had booked through ‘Dark Rome’ but it was the same tour on offer from several different sites run by citywonders. I got up to the front of the line and they wanted me to wait which immediately made me worried. I didn’t want this to be another Dublin. They assured me that I had a ticket. There was another group who hadn’t booked together and they wanted to go together. I was more gracious about it than another woman.

They first told me to go join Melissa’s group, but as we were walking to the buses they were asking the other women if she would change and she was putting up a huge fight which I didn’t understand because she was traveling alone. I volunteered to change and got put into Manuel’s group with two others from my original group. Although I’m not sure how Melissa’s group turned out, Manuel was amazing!

The drive down to Pompeii was 3 hours, and we broke it up in half, stopping at a shop with bathrooms. A good portion of the way own, Manuel gave us a lot of information, talking about the surrounding area, Italian life, and Italian food.

Our first stop was the hike up Mt. Vesuvius. We had an hour and 20 minutes to make it up the mountain, a supposedly 30 minute hike, and back down. There are three souvenir shops along the way. Once you meet the first one, a supposedly 10-15 minutes, you’ve done the heavy lifting and completing the steepest section. It was grueling. The sun was hot and the ground was soft. It was almost like walking on sand. Not what I was expecting. I made my way slowly stopping at each of the four benches to stop and catch my breath. I wasn’t sure I was going to make it in time to actually see inside the volcano, but I kept at it. I climbed and climbed and climbed. They stopped having benches and I had to stop along the railing. At least the view of Naples and the Bay of Naples was beautiful to look at. Finally, I made the first souvenir shop. I really wanted to make it to the second because there is a terrace just beyond that has the best view according to Manuel. I didn’t make it that far. The third souvenir shop was out of the question, but had the same view and just put you on the other side of the volcano. Even though I only made it in between the two shops I was still able to enjoy the view for a little time. It’s crazy to think that the volcano could blow again. 600,000 people live in the red zone and have a fatalist view on life. Of course Manuel had told us all about the dangers as we were driving up to the volcano, but assured us that it wouldn’t erupt today. It’s heavily monitored.

I saw Manuel heading back down so I headed back to. I didn’t want to miss the bus. The way down was much easier than the way up had been even with slipping. There was this group of three French boys that were driving me crazy. They kept running and sliding on the rocks which caused dust to rise in the air. Not cool. I got my token pin, grabbed a PowerAde, and got back on the air conditioned bus.

Time for Napoli pizza. I was set at a table of an Australian family, one of the two on our bus, and a fellow West Coaster from LA. The conversation was mainly about sports which I had little to add to. And my obsession is with British culture not Australian culture. I didn’t think they would appreciate my mention of Satisfaction (a show about escorts) or Project Runway Australia the only Australian shows I’ve watched. I added to the conversation when I could. The pizza, which was supposed to be the star of the show was okay, but not amazing. I loved the thick crust, but the toppings were bland and looked nothing like the Margherita I had ordered. The salad was really good though.

After pizza, we again climbed onto the bus after having to wait in the shade, ugh! It was a short drive to Pompeii where we met our local guide Louisa. We had the handy radio sets again as she led us through the ruined city. Pompeii is amazing! It’s amazing it survived. Mt. Vesuvius has erupted covering the city in ash and rock which helped preserve it. You can still see the drawings on the way. A forgotten city. Beautiful. I was surprised to see all the houses so close together. From the forum there are spectacular views of Mt. Vesuvius, and I can’t imagine watching it explode the ash into the air 12 miles high. It would have been frightening.

Leaving Pompeii, we headed back to Rome, stopping once again halfway through at the shop where we were treated to a wine tasting. Amazing wine. We then were treated to a series of restaurant recommendations from Manuel. He then went through the bus to mark on the map where things were if we wanted. He had recommended a vegetarian place which I had him mark and then a few gelato places I asked him to mark as well.

Getting back at 8:30 it was dinner time and I headed out for the vegetarian place which was close by. I ended up taking the long way around, but finally found it. The staff wasn’t super nice, but I had a vegan summer burger which was one of the best meals I’ve had in Rome. A family brought their dog in to eat with them. And not a eye seeing dog either. The waiters brought a water dish for the dog. It took a while to get my check, but I finally paid and was once again on my way. I had wanted to visit the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Fountain and I knew they weren’t too far off. I made it to the Spanish Steps which were blocked off and tried figuring out how to get to the Trevi Fountain, but after having a bad run in with a guy on the street passing out roses I didn’t want and then wanting money for them I was ready to go home. I turned around, back down into the Metro and rode home.

I washed Vesuvius and Pompeii off of me before collapsing into bed. I was worn out.

July 10th - The Final Day

Yesterday was the last day of my first residency with Spalding. It was a full day of bittersweetness. The morning started off with an amazing lecture from Ed Boland about his book Battle for Room 314. I so have to read his book now. It’s about his experience teaching kids which didn’t go as planned. Something I could really connect with. This was followed by our travel journal readings. I read twice and it felt good to share. Morning classes ended with a follow-up to the cross-genre assignment. We had all turned in a 2 page script involving architecture or art object of Rome. The faculty read through them all and picked a few to perform.

And they were hilarious. The ideas people came up with were great and the faculty really know how to ham it up. Plus, my script was chosen!  Seeing my words performed for everyone was surreal. Nothing beats watching Sena use a ‘blaster.’

Lunch was low key in the hotel with Mary. I decided to use the time to also book a tour of Pompeii and Mount Vesuvius instead of braving it on my own and having to worry about everything.

The afternoon started with graduate student readings. We had two excerpts of novels and two performance pieces. All were amazing. It’s cool to think that one day that will be me.  Graduation rounded out the afternoon which was an interesting affair. It was a simple ceremony in the same room we had been in all day. The graduates walked in from the back of the room with golden laurel wreaths adorning their heads and Atul decked out in a toga. Unlike other graduation ceremonies, this one had audience participation. We all hummed the pomp and circumstance tune as the graduates walked in. At the very least, it made you feel a part of something. A couple speeches, hooding of each graduate, and presentation of diplomas and it was done. What could have been a super long day staying in the same room all day zipped by in no time.

The only thing left to do was eat. Our farewell dinner was across the street from where our welcome dinner was. And it wasn’t as good in my opinion. The first course was a great pasta dish with vegetables. That was followed by a vegetable lasagna which was way too cheesy, plus I was already finished with the first course, but there is always room for desert. Especially when that desert is tiramisu. 

Back at the hotel it was time for hugs and goodbyes. I met up with Greta who happened to also be in Italy, and we joined the others on the terrace for the night.

July 9th - Musei Capitolini, Lakes in the Alban Hills, and Wine

Today was our half free day half tour day. I started the day by sleeping in until 7am. It was glorious. I was even able to eat a good breakfast. I knew there was stuff I needed to do at the hotel, but I wanted to take advantage of the day and my time here in Rome I was bummed when I found out that the National Museum of Modern Art was being updated so the 19^th 20^th century rooms I was planning on visiting, to see Van Gogh, were closed. I needed another plan, so I got my Rick Steves book out and decided on the Capitolini Museum. I found my route and headed out. I took it slow and steady. I knew I had the afternoon left to do so I didn’t want to overtax myself after finally feeling better.

I ended up taking a different route, but I still ended up in the same place. I was able to enjoy looking at the Roman Forum a little bit more before heading up to the Capitolini Museum. The museum has some nice pieces and beautiful huge frescos. I got a little mixed up in my directions at first and couldn’t find the rooms I was looking for. Finally, going the wrong way round I found the Medusa head, the boy taking the thorn out, Brutus, and of course the she-wolf suckling Remus and Romulus, the ‘founders’ of Rome. The museum also has the original statue of Marcus Aurelius, the copy is in the square. What was also amazing was the view! I was able to see the whole city!

My time was winding down at the museum, and although I had meant to go to the other side through the underground tunnel I missed it and ended up leaving the museum. I got to see what I wanted to see so that was good and I had to get back to the hotel anyways. On my way back I stopped by Tarjan’s column and market. The Column is intricately carved and beautiful.

I went back a different way than I had come which posed a few problems, but nothing major. I knew the street I needed to be on and I could see it, but there was also a set of stairs. I should have taken the stairs as they were a shortcut, but the long way around let me know that I was going in the right direction because I recognized the route from the bus, so not a wasted detour. I made it back to the hotel without any sidetracking! I was so proud of myself.

I made it back to the hotel with enough time for lunch before we all boarded the bus for the Alban Hills.

The tour was nice a relaxed. We had only three stops and minimal walking. Our first stop was a view of Lake Albano and the Papal Summer Palace. Beautiful lake with a nice charming town attached. You really wished you could be on the water on one of the sailboats. In the distance you could see towns cascading from the cliff. Being out of the city was also nice for a change.

Our second stop was in a town known for its small strawberries, delicious small strawberries, and a view of Lake Nemi. While others decided to explore the town, I was content to sit on a bench and eat my strawberries. I even got to pet a cat which made me miss Nimbus.

Our final stop was for our wine tasting. Getting to the wine tasting was an adventure all on its own. We pulled up to this huge bridge, which we were told was a local spot for suicides. We then had to take the ski lift up to the town. Our guide was convinced we could fit 20 people in it, but that was never going to happen. First it was buzzing because we were over the weight limit. Two people got off and the buzzing only stopped when I got off, great confidence builder there. Even with the buzzing stopped they still couldn’t move and they had to shed a few more people, that made me feel a little better. I hopped onto the next car and was able to look around the place with its magnificent views while I waited for the rest of the group to join.

Then we walked down the street to this small restaurant where we were having our wine tasting. Honestly, it was more like just drinking wine rather than tasting wine. They filled up a glass of red wine and a glass of white wine and offered refills. Then came the food. First I had a plate of olives, olive oil bread, and a whole bunch of meat. On top of that we already had a giant loaf of bread on the table. I ate the bread an olives and wasn’t going to do anything about the meat. They waited until after they passed out the meat to ask if there were any vegetarians. Willamaye finally just told them and they exchanged my plate for a plate of grilled zucchini, eggplant with roasted red peppers, and an egg quiche thing. It was sooo good. Our wine tasting tour came to an end, too abrupt for most. I had tried both the red and the white wine and had preferred the white wine so I thought I would drink the red wine first and savor the white wine, but when I got almost done with the red wine it hit me hard and I was done. Others got cute little to go cups of their wine. Instead of taking the ski lift back down we had to walk a back and forth half step half ramp trail down to the bottom. I’m surprised everyone made it down safely. At the hotel we had to say goodbye to our wonderful tour guide.

The night ended with the first, the best gelato I’ve had yet (Carmel and chocolate fudge which tasted like brownie batter) and then second, a drinking party on the 8^th floor terrace. I drank a little bit of wine and had some good conversations, but then it was time for bed. One more day of classes and my first residency is over! I can’t wait for next year in Edinburgh.